In a “follow-on” from a similar tasting of 2008 White Burgundies (see here) a slightly different collection of ten current and past members of the trade and a few collectors joined together to taste 25 white Burgundies from the 2010 vintage. The first half of the wines were tasted at our hosts house and then the remainder at the really great Trinity Restaurant (another diner I have had at Trinity can be read about here). All wines were just poured from bottle and tasted as they are. The one exception is the Chablis which had been double decanted. The wines were tasted in 3’s or 4’s and within their communes. There are lots of vintage reports about the 2010’s it is viewed as a very good to excellent vintage for red and whites.
Puligny Montrachet 1er Cru Combettes, Sauzet – A kind contribution from an absent friend. was quite closed initially but there was density here, a little of that late-harvest richness then a more savoury mid-palate, a little oak too but not too much, quite easy and not far off ready to drink. 16.5-17/20
Puligny Montrachet 1er Caillerets, de Montille – Clean and possibly an little neutral to start but then does open out a little, some lemon shortbread. Actually in good balance, I liked this, impressive. 17/20
Puligny Montrachet 1er Cru Clavoillon, Domaine Leflaive – Generally the least prized of the Domaines 1er Crus. This stole the show in the Puligny round (by 8 votes to 2) was was both taut and big at the same time, plenty of fruit under a currently savoury structure, some really good lemon freshness. 18/20
Chassagne Montrachet, Marc Antonin-Blain – Not a terribly clean example, green fruit then a goey more evolved palate and texture, not scored.
Chassagne Montrachet Tete du Clos, Benjamin Leroux – The “winner” of the Chassagne selection. Easily worthy of 1er Cru and a good one. A big wine with savoury richness and a very well integrated and quite large wood component. I would probably have been in Meursault if it had been blind, very good 18/20
Chassagne Montrachet 1er Cru Maltroie, Fontaine Gagnard – Quite toasty and open, a little sweaty on the palate and nose but not badly so. Not massively great, ok. Unexciting but open for business and a drinker. 16/20
Corton Charlemagne, Bonneau du Martray – This got a very mixed review, I really liked it in my biased way and felt it showed well, I’ve never seen Bonneau criticised for being “too big” but it was here. I felt the opposite, all in check and good. 17/20
Meursault, Coche Dury – This lacked the Coche nose that was expected and actually was possibly not the best bottle of this, not corked though, it was just a bit loose on the nose and on re-visiting did start to show bruised apples etc 16/20 but tempting not to score it as I imagine the true reflection is much higher.
Meursault Chevaliers, Boisson Vadot – Not the rich opulent nose of the Grands Charrons but I would say certainly a step up in poise, fruit weight and refinement very impressive and one of the wines that was multi-dimensional. 18/20
Meursault Tete de Murgers, Javillier – This got slightly split reviews it certainly had more opulence, but not oak, more exotic fruit flavours and more expressive almost new world-ish. I liked it’s different approach. 17/20
Meursault 1er Cru Genevrieres, Lafon – corked
Meursault 1er Cru Perrieres, Lafon – One of the real stars, a very exciting wine, lemon and oak richness, savoury underneath, good acidity and just all round impressive. True Meursault, very fine. 18.5/20
I was left a little subdued and slightly confused. The Lafon Perrieres, the Leflaive Cavoillon and the Boisson Vadot’s (for contrasting styles) gave some excitement but generally I expected a little more focus, zest and excitement. A good vintage? Yes and to my mind better than the 2008’s BUT I think the main lesson for me was that in White Burgundy generalising about a vintage is next to pointless. From producer to producer the styles are different, the use of oak and the time of picking so crucial that it is more a house style one needs to find than a vintage.
There were a couple of reds shown too. Firstly (open) was Dry River Pinot 1996 – was really good very full fruited, both red and black fruit there. It had a nice aged quality and is great now. Served blind was Romanee St Vivant 1990, Louis Latour, wishing to get the embarrassment out the way early I was actually moving towards older northern Rhone, the only doubt I had was the depth of the wine in colour and on the palate. Some went for southern rhone other Burgundy but it was a novelty rather than profound wine, fun though.
And that was that, a fun evening, generously organised and hosted with great food and a lot of chat…what vintage next time…?
|The first of our two starters…I could eat it everyday!|