Ok so this is the 8th rendition of this dinner. As ever the biggest thank you is to the events creator – Mike Laing – who not only got the first one (the 1996 vintage) to happen but has made sure it has happened for every vintage and that we caught up with the Covid “interruption” as well as always creating a cracking menu. This year in A4 for the first time – a nod I am sure to the ever decaying eyesight of the group! Another thank you must go to Medlar Restaurant who have been the venue from the off. They have always done it with grace and humour and embraced the spirit – if you’ve not been for a while or never been then go, very much a must-go of the London wine scene. I have not repeated the menu here but it was spot on!
Here are links to the previous ones:
Ok so enough waffle, on to the wines. With 2003 following 2002 (obvs!) you probably wont encounter two more different European vintages with extreme heat following wet and damp. What I think this dinner, yet again, showed was that quality wins through! All wines served blind for 5minutes or so.
Dom Perignon 2003 – not exactly that many options for Champagne in 2003. This was lovely, resolved, in a good place, a nod to the complexity of some age but really just doing exactly what DP does. I wonder what I would have thought of if not knowing the vintage – certainly not 2003, rich? yes but not heavy.
Batard-Montrachet Grand Cru 2003, Domaine Leflaive – The first of three whites. This was briney with no lack of acidity. The nose was easily definable as top end Cote de Beaune. The colour was more of a wine of 10-12 years age not 20. There was a little more weight and texture to the palate than the nose suggested. (This is an original release bottle not a checked and re-conditioned one). Everyone seemed please with it and I certainly was. Classy complete and delicious.
Nuit-Saint-Georges 1er Cru Clos de L’Arlot Blanc 2003, Domaine de L’Arlot – I’ve always liked this wine and the young vines version “La Gerbotte”. Possibly the gap between 1er Cru and Grand Cru showed. There were ripe fruits with a little caramel and butterscotch. This was clinging on a little bit but was in tact and complete and did not fall apart.
Ribolla Gialla 2003 En Magnum, Gravner, Venezia Giulia IGT – A rather special magnum that confounded some and was a first time experience for others. 7 years ageing and then only released lately. There is almost no producer I want to like more than Gravner. This was good – tart, rich but full, complete. Both hedonistic and serious. A dryness to the end. Would be good to have with hard salty cheese later.
Cote Rotie La Turque 2003, E.Guigal – So this didn’t hold back. Extravagant, some coconut and high octane fruit. A lushness but with varietal character. I enjoyed it for being exactly what it should be.
Howell Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon 2003, Dunn Vineyards – I actually wondered if this was top level Aussie (Mount Edelstone or Grange). There was a richness and a punch allied to a note of eucalyptus. Good but almost OTT.
Cornas 2003, Domaine Clape – One of the real stars for me – a class act. Stunning, deep, classy, fresh yet savoury. Cool saturated dark fruits with a blood and iron note. The epitome of northern Rhone Syrah.
Forts de Latour 2003, Pauillac, Chateau Latour – My hand written note simply says – “Lovely, lovely, proper medium weight – so balanced, spot on!” – This was a wine well know to its provider and I can see why. A star and punching up at its older sibling for sure.
Roc de Cambes 2003, Cotes de Bourg, Francois Mitjavile – Such a shame that one of our usual number could not make it as he is a full fledged member of the Mitjavile fan club. This “David” of a wine is a slayer of big reputations so often. It more than held its ground here against foes from the “other bank”. Mellow and resolved. In bottle format best drunk over the next 3-5years.
Leoville Poyferre 2003, St.Julien – I have a thing for Leoville Poyferre. I admire it for being serious but not always taking itself too seriously. The 1990 is a great bottle. I had high hopes here and they weren’t shattered but it was a little less expressive than I expected. Good nonetheless.
Lynch-Bages 2003, Pauillac – With a number of those present having worked at (still do in two cases) a certain St.James and Basingstoke associated merchant we had to have Lynch. It was good, savoury and serious with a proper Pauillac personality.
Mouton-Rothschild 2003, Pauillac – Unquestionably another star here. This was superb. Performing its role of the extrovert First Growth with some aplomb. Walking that fine line between properness and ostentation very deftly. A real treat and no rush to drink but do have a bottle soon if you have it.
Clos de Bourg 1er Trie, Moelleux 2003, Vouray, Domaine Huet – Sweet wines were always going to be trickier but this did well with the cheese (as did the Gravner). The wine is almost ageless and will probably remain as such!
It was yet another special evening with this gang and a glorious array of wines. What will 2004 hold – probably a lot more than people might think: Spain, Italy as well as white Burgundy, Champagne and much, much more!
194KPR 