It didn’t take long to get back to Zucca in 2014 although this blog has taken longer to publish that I hoped. With there having been a few Burgundy tastings in town “Halifax” (he’s in several entries on here) had decided a trip was a good idea. When we arrived Sam (Harris) said “how about you just pick a main course each and I’ll do the rest” – perfect! I’ve never been a big fan of menus.

Zucca Friti
Lardo, Salami and Bresaola
Seabass Carpaccio and chilli
Clams with Broccoli/Cauliflower Hybrid
Burrata with Artichoke and cress
Ox tongue with Cauliflower pickle
Linguine with Bechamel and pistachio
Corda with spicy veal ragu
Pork Belly / Veal Chop
Panna Cotta / Custard Tart

Clams with Broccoli/Cauliflower Hybrid

So how better to start the drinking than “Sussex’s” Salon 1996? With the 2002 release just around the corner this was very timely. The 1996 has a taut lemon sherbet core and is still a puppy but one that is enjoyable now and will just carry on evolving for some decades to come. Our northern organiser had brought the next two wines – Maxim Grunhauser Herrenberg Spatlese 1995 & 2007 – clearly he feared the amount of alcohol there would be and decide to lower things. The two wines showed just as you would expect, the 2007 gorgeously vibrant and youthful but so drinkable. The 1995 was that bit drier with petrol notes just starting to appear, a little lychee too. Sadly the Meursault Villages 2005, Lafon lost the game of oxidative roulette, a real shame. A bottle was bought of the list to replace it and that was Tocai Fruilano 2009 from Miani, it was very young but really delicious in my view with a weighty waxy texture but some how not heavy…it opened up in glass well.

We were then onto a pair of Burgundy’s Chambertin Clos de Beze Grand Cru 2002, Domain Pierre Roche and Nuits St George 1er Cru Boudots 1989, Leroy. You could look at these a few ways the Roche was a headier richer more decadent wine, a little more evolved than you might expect but not in a bad way. A quite viscous texture, I don’t know the estate well but from those who knew it better this seemed to be the style of the wines and lets face it 2002 is quite a rich vintage anyway, nice. The Leroy was leaner, fresher (especially given the age) it was focussed and very enjoyable without being in anyway extrovert.

Barolo now and two at very differing ends of both the maturity and style scales. The Barolo Pie Franco 2006 from Cappellano is very traditional and uncompromising but is actually just incredibly delicious too. I fully expect it will shut down a little but there is no sign just yet. It has an exciting nervousness and a fruit style that is slightly darker than some traditional wines. The Barolo Villero Riserva 1982 from Vietti was interesting but in honesty had gone slightly too far down the “bacon and frazzles” road, there was some reddish fruit there but the bricky chalky texture had started to show. Drinkable and in a fully mature way decent but it is tired. 

With pudding we had a cracking desert wine – Malvasia Passito 2008, Vigna del Volta – that had good sweetness but also a vibrant and very clear acidity, a great little discovery!

One of the great things about Zucca being something of a haven for wine lovers is that there are often other people trying interesting wines and the odd glass gets passed over. We sent a few glasses to our friends next door but you can safely say we got the best of the deal as they sent samples of the 4 wines below:

Montrachet Grand Cru 08 Marquis de Laguiche, Drouhin – so clearly Grand Cru.
Clos de la Roche Grand Cru 99, Leroy – stunning, brightly vivid.
Clos de la Roche Grand Cru 99, Lignier – slick sexy, quite hedonistic, smart.
Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Les Amoureuses 66, Leroy – fully mature, still sweet, fascinating.

Brilliant evening!