Wednesday 14th May
I actually missed the very start as the team – EW, EB, JW & FVDB – all got cracking the night before we left.
DINNER – Oxfordshire
Obviously I can’t supply tasting notes for wines when I wasn’t there but the wines as a point of record were cleverly chosen by our prime co-ordinator FDVB!
Meursault 1er Cru Les Genevieres 2004, Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey (PYCM)
It sounds as though they all went down very well!
St.Aubin 1er Cru Charmois 2011, Mark Colin – the first of many good St.Aubins, lovely vibrancy but not without substance and great texture.
Chambolle-Musigny Villages 2009, Roumier – very good, dense fresh black fruits, good balance of opulence and refinement.
Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru 2008, Mugnier – featured high on my list of wines of the
whole trip, uber-elegant, crisp red fruits but with structure there if effortlessly hidden. Delicious.
Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru 2008, Roumier – More depth and texture than the Mugnier at the expense of a little freshness, a different “shape” to the Mugnier. Promising.
Beaumes de Venise, good with the apple tart!
After lunch and en route to tasting at de Vogue we stopped off at both Bonnes Mares and at Musigny to have a nose around and get a feel for the terroir…so rare to be able to drink a wine then look at exactly where it was from.
Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru 2013 – A bit deeper in colour, red fruits again though, raspberry and pomegranate, then on the palate more pungent darker fruits and some black pepper.
Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Les Amoureuses 2013 (older oak) – Really cleanily persistent, very long, just four barrels, poise and focus to the cherry fruit. Impressive.
Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Les Amoureuses 2013 (100% new oak) – Redder fruit with a sweeter attack but a drier palate, a darker colour, a little nutmeg, less energy.
Bonnes Mares Grand Cru 2013– A rounder shape and as Francois put it a “brother of Chambertin”. This has bigger shoulders and is darker, blueberries and cloves.
Musigny Vieilles Vignes 2013 – Very complex, delicious but at the same time very hard to define, quite a bit of grip and very very long, depth, impressive.
From De Vogue Daniel took us to drop our bags at Hotel Le Cep a good spot with everything you need and good for walking to any of the restaurants we had booked in Beaune. A couple of beers slipped down nicely while we waited for our table at dinner…
Meursault Villages 2007, Lafon– Citrus and some opulence, very “Lafon”, good elegance to match the richness, nice wine that pushed the Coche hard!
Meursault Villages 2007, Coche-Dury – Very refined but a dash less “Coche” than I might expect, a good showing and perfect to drink from now onwards.
Gevrey-Chambertin Villages 2010, Rousseau – Excitingly pure and good, a great vintage and a great producer, so much to like. The 2010’s are amazing in being very proper but at the same time gorgeous now.
Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Clos Saint Jacques 2006, Bruno Clair – A decent wine but not as exciting as what went before. The vintage is not one that I “go to” as it can be a
little muddied, this was fine but slightly clumsy and lacked the drive it needed.
Beaune Clos du Roi 1959, Chanson– Some real sweetness, I liked this, very much alive and well, pepped up with something when it was made? Bovril edges and then a little mint and almost eucalyptus. Heather and spice. Long and not “browned off”.
Having resisted the red wine at breakfast and survived the rather taxing buffet layout we headed, promptly, up the road north to Gevrey-Chambertin…
Gevrey Chambertin 1er Cru Capita 2011– A combination of 3 different 1er Crus. A deeper darker fruit and will reward a few more years.
Charmes Chambertin Grand Cru 2011– Taughter, tighter and larger, lovely berry fruits but black, quite serious.
Chambertin Grand Cru 2011 – Silky richness, volume of darker fruits, mulberry fruits also. Splendid!
Clos de Tart Grand Cru 2013 (Parcel 4)– Deeper more blackcurrant in fruit style.
Clos de Tart Grand Cru 2010 – From bottle this is absolutely splendid and very very refined but at the same time bold and with some force…I think a potentially very great wine.
Chambertin Clos de Beze Grand Cru 2008, Groffier – This was a more “made” wine that either of the Grand Cru 2008’s at Le Chambolle a little forced and slightly disappointing.
Yquem 1989 – Superb, has the richness, opulence and intensity you expect but with real drive and definition.
Yquem 1990 – A more rancio style and more developed, very good but not as poised as the 1989, more of a tarte tatin also. Goof with the sweetness of pudding.
There was potential for our time keeping to slip here but with impeccable discipline (hich oddly remained with us all trip) we headed off just in time…
Beaune 1er Cru Marconnet Blanc 2012, Francois Labet – A generous wine with fruit that stops just short of being tropical, mellow structure with a nicely sensitive use of oak, just adds a little weight and spice.
Beaune 1er Cru Marconnet 2012, Francois Labet –Richness and violet fruit with nice depth, an easy wine to enjoy.
Beaune 1er Cru Coucherias 2012, Francois Labet – Darker fruit and has a lightness as well as quite saturated fruit, then good grip, lovely.
Clos Vougeot Cuvee Classique Grand Cru 2012 – Complete, has a dark fruit core,
Clos Vougeot VV Grand Cru 2012– Pungent and powerful, very impressive, real density but without leaving the Pinot Noir aromas behind. A real Vin de Garde.
Clos Vougeot Cuvee Classique Grand Cru 2009 – Wrong time to taste this wine (for which we were to blame as we had taken it with us), all the parts are there but it’s a sleep now. (When re-tasted the following day it was loosening up).
Clos Vougeot Cuvee Classique Grand Cru 2008 – Degraded fruit, richness then bold, a little leather, give it 3-5 years more, impressive.
Clos Vougeot VV Grand Cru 2008–Just a step up in refinement, then more power, good acidity, high quality.
Clos Vougeot VV Grand Cru 2007– Really, really delicious, quite feminine for this estate and for Clos Vougeot, has poise and balance, will age well but delicious now.
Clos Vougeot VV Grand Cru 2002– Really, really decadent but with good freshness for 2002 (I often find this lacking in 2002 generally). Sweet fruit and just very complete, I don’t see it closing down so if you own this then try a bottle and enjoy it over the next few decades. So good that one of our party proclaimed “this is love!”
It had been a very good day, a little “rest” and then…
St.Aubin 1er Cru En Remilly 2012, P-Y C-M– Very nice, nervous balance with a bit of richness that will come out.
La Forge de Tart 2004 1er Cru, Clos de Tart– Good especially for a 2004, a lightness of fruit and a gentle hand which is a good approach.
Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er cru Les Vaucrans 2007, Chevillon – Good, quite dense for a 2007, nicely “Nuits” in style, good earthiness.
Volnay 1er Cru Taillepieds 2010, d.Angerville – Very good indeed, really energy drive and poise as well. Another prime example of what I said about 2010 at Le Chambolle. Just beautiful now at what seems like infanticide.
En route to Chassagne-Montrachet for the tasting below we decided to stop off at “Combettes Corner” to have a look at things – Meursault to the left and Puligny to the right etc. We then went to the top corner of Le Montrachet (pic below) to have an early morning loosener – Krug 1988, deliciously decadent, rich but not overly heavy – while then walking across the bottom of Le Montrachet and on towards Chassagne. To accompany this stroll we had a bottle of Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru 2011, Bonneau du Martraywhich showed some real poise and elegance, balanced white fruit and strangely not too young but still very youthful (if that isn’t a contradiction). A quick hop back into the “van” and we were at our tasting.
Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Baudines 2012, PYCM – Very generous, good bite of citrus, almost opulent nose, perfect in 3-4 years, very good.
Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Caillerets 2012, PYCM – Very mineral, fine almost Chablis-esque.
Meursault 1er Cru Les Charmes 2012, PYCM – More roundness but still clean and focussed. Will be generous wine, just a matter of the time.
Meursault 1er Cru Les Genevieres 2012, PYCM – More refined than the Charmes, may be longer lived, just has a little more lift.
Batard-Montrachet Grand Cru 2012, PYCM – Broad and powerful, just what you want from Batard, so much texture, very good indeed.
Santenay VV 2012, PYCM – I think this is the only red P-Y does. We tasted one older bottle (open 4 or 5 days) at the tasting then took a “fresh” one to lunch. The opened one was nice, the fruit a tiny bit bruised but good.
Le Montrachet, Puligny-Montrachet
|The top corner of Le Montrachet on a beautiful morning!|
Batard-Montrachet Grand Cru 2009, PYCM – This was chosen to go alongside the 2012 Batard. It was very in check for a 2009, richness and generosity with a saline butteriness. Very good.
Santenay VV 2012, PYCM – This was far fresher than the one we had at the tasting and a very impressive wine, dark fruits. The site is just below the 1er Crus. Nice.
La Tache 2007, Domaine de la Romanee Conti – Now you might on the face of it see this as infanticide but it isn’t, delicious, poised fruit and so much focus, I am a massive fan of the 2007’s and this is one of the very best. There is structure and acidity but neither show over the fruit. Just lovely.
Clos de La Roche Grand Cru 2005, Rousseau – Getting a little lax on the note taking at this stage other that the fact that my book says “delicious” a wine with a real texture and potential, far nearer infanticide than the Tache, mighty fine though.
Rieussec 1978 – Very good and quite like the 1975 Rieussec’s I have had, very full, not over sweet, quite rancio flavours, a good wine.
With brief respite and a little shopping or the odd beer and it was time for dinner…in honesty the system was starting to feel it but the energy was still there…just
Aligote de Bouzeron 2012, A&P de Villaine – A choice that I made here, I wanted to show the Aligote grape and also maker another link to DRC, albeit through Aubert de Villaine’s own estate, a gooseberry wine with great attack, a livener…
Chablis Grand Cru Valmur 2010, Raveneau– I’ll be back to buy this again at a meagre 115 Euro (the 2011 was 105 Euro) this has a little bit of everything, really rather refined, textured and just delicious.
Meursault Les Narvaux 2011, Roulot– Probably a dash too young, the acidity will mellow but a good bottle of refined and focused Meursault.
Morey-Saint-Denis 2002, Dujac– Really enjoyable, generous but not a degraded 2002 which many can be. The fruit is quite black but the freshness balanced well.
Morey-Saint-Denis 1er Cru Les Chaffots 2008, H.Lignier – This was higher-toned than the Dujac but still good, darker fruit a bit of structure and acidity. Best in 2-3 years but good.
Le Corton Grand Cru 2009, Bonneau du Martray – Very good, a different “shape” from the MSD’s. The roundness is nice and the 2009 takes away the sometimes crude “Corton-ness” you can get from this vineyard.
All in all a very “memorable” day.
|Quite an outfit…not mine!|