Well, I must start (as I did a year ago) with an apology or two.
Firstly, to any regular reader who may have missed me posting, well, I can’t really blame anyone, its been a busy year. I will continue to say “I am looking to do a few more and have a series of drafts in work”
Secondly, to the wonderful team of friends that is the wine trip. This post is 11 months and 3 weeks after out last trip to Piedmont. We head off to Tuscany in under a week for the tenth trip we have done. Only the covid years and 2024 managed to de-rail us! (keen eyed observers will notice that we are starting a series of “re-visits”).
It has to be said that when it comes to these trips there is something about Italy that works so well.
Below are the previous trips.
Over the years the trip has ebbed and flowed between five and ten people. For Piedmont, six became five not long before the trip as Magnum was forced put commerce before wine…
Another tradition that seems to be getting established (remembering that a tradition can be defined as an experiment that works) is the pre trip dinner in the Cotswolds. This year Dusty (who gets the “miles travelled” award) and Boycey (who wasn’t even making the trip) got things going early with a lunch.
Dusty and Boycey’s Lunch at Hide
They enjoyed these wines, I wasn’t there so can’t comment:
Champagne Bruno Paillard Premiere Cuvee Extra Brut NV
Chablis Grand Cru Les Grenouilles 2012, Daniel Etienne Defaix
Santa Rita Hills Pinot Noir 2022, DDLC
The rest of us – Leechy, Dusty and myself – then made out way to Cotswolds to join Wardy and Fiscali.
Pre-Dinner, Chez Fiscali
Domaine Tempier Rose 2023 En Magnum (and a bottle) – this rose is “the” trip rose having featured several times, textured and just to enjoyable, arguably best with one more summer “on its back” as in this case.
Dinner The Black Horse
Time to get things started properly with dinner. The first two Vatans had travelled back with us from the Bordeaux trip such was Dusty’s excitement.
Sancerre Clos la Neore 2010, E.Vatan & Sancerre Clos la Neore 2008, E.Vatan – Without notes all I remember is that one was delicious and one exhausted. From there, having had the rose before of course, we moved to reds. But a pretty high end pair.
Bonnes Mares Grand Cru 1999, de Vogue – this was drinking so nicely, the Musigny 1999 remains a little shy but not so the Bonnes mares, delicious. Got better with air as well.
Musigny Grand Cru 2022, de Vogue – This wine I wanted us to try as the team change at de Vogue (Jean Lupatelli from Francois Millet) has seen the style, and approachability, change markedly. It shows all its class and deftness. Poise in spades.
Petit-Village 2005 – I think this was Wardy’s offering and drinking well. A well sited Pomerol. 2005s just starting to show a bit of “knicker”.
Vega Sicilia Unico 2004 – Leechy – delicious, in a cracking place, great vintage there too, savoury and sweet. A lovely reminder of our Spain trip.
Vieux Chateau Certan 2004 En magnum – VCC is a glorious property, suave, refined and just what Pomerol is about, the drinkability of 2004 combined with the magnum format is a winner. (“Unofficial” Brand ambassador trousers below).
Post dinner Fiscali – Corton Grand Cru 2011, Domaine de la Romanee-Conti – not sure I want to admit this but those staying at Fiscali’s had had just the right amount of wine to need one more bottle! as good as you’d expect, 2011s are realy coming into the zone. Time to get a few ZZZ’s
In the Air…
Chanin 2020 Chardonay, Sanford & Benedict Vineyard
A slight on in flight choice but it had been a big night and out main Champagne devotee (Magnum) wasn’t with us.
Flight done – time for the Milan to Gattinara drive.
I’ve mentioned many times in either interviews or articles or my own blog ramblings how if I have a vinous hero or a winemaker I’d like to write about then it would be Roberto Conterno. This trip, as a man and as a winemaker (& restaurateur) only went to strengthen that belief.
We had a great tasting and tour of Nervi with Roberto and Elisa. To think it was only 8 years ago that Roberto took this project on…
Azienda Vitivinicola Nervi & Cucine Nervi
And so to lunch at Cucina Nervi – think Italian food with Japanese obsessiveness…
Jefferson Rosato 2019 En Magnum – the 3rd vintage of this zero dosage sparkling Nebbiolo. Really delicious and a great pick me up.
Nervi-Conterno Rosato 2019 – only the second vintage of this Rosato. This was a playful selection aimed just at showing that the wine (under screw cap – FYI) ages well. It was very good. as the fruit drops the salinity of Nebbiolo appears more.
Gattinara Vigna Valferana 2018, Nervi-Conterno – now we stepped into the real deal and the first full vintage under Roberto. Valferana is one of the two single vineyards, Molsino the other. This is great now but has time ahead of it. Always a little spice behind the fuit.
The food was flowing by this stage.
Barolo Cascina Francia 2004, Giacomo Conterno – A typically generous bottle from Roberto. 2004 being a superb vintage. This is in the zone now but there is simply no rush. Effortlessly balanced.
Barolo Riserva Monfortino 1998, Giacomo Conterno – Then to the first of a “few” Monfortinos we would have over the coming days. The 1998 is ready to go with a lovely degraded fruit and good acidity. It is into 3rd if not 4th gear!
After this stellar lunch we bid goodbye to Roberto knowing we would see him the following day. We ventured to Barolo proper and checked into the Relais Le Rocche in La Morra, a really nice team there and a recommended place to stay.
Pre-dinner
On the terrace at the hotel we enjoyed a magnum of Le Petit Cheval Blanc Bordeaux Blanc 2021. It worked well as a palate refresher, crisp but not just crisp.
Tota Virginia was our dinner spot, a recommendation from great mate ZuccaSam. We got the list and got going!
Pol Roger 2013 – good richness from this cracking vintage, more to come.
Clos St.Hune 2016, Trimbach – A wine I have never had enough times, an Icon of a region. I like this but may be expected more, it might be in a slight teenage phase. Or possibly our palates were tiring?
Barolo Tre Tine 2016, G.Rinaldi – Always a label I am so pleased to see. 2016 is a classic vintage, in the good sense, this was aromatic with great structure. Robust and just the right side of wild!
When in Piedmont there are certain foods that are almost compulsory.
Le Pergole Torte 2016, Montevertine – A rare venture to Tuscany whilst in Piedmont, another icon of a region. This was having a little bit of a sulk. The purity of youth not quite lingering but the degradation of age not yet at the party.
Barolo Pira 2013, Roagna – Ahead of seeing Luca the following day we thought it only right to close out day one with one of his own. This was powerful and tight but oh so pure.
A tour of the cellar followed dinner – might have to return.
It had been a lovely dinner but somehow the wines didn’t quite sing, probably us after a long day and being sandwiched between two meals with Roberto was always going to be a tough gig!
Day 2:
We had a very quick drive to go and see a great friend of both mine and the trip – Giulia Negri. To have been involved in Giulia’s journey has been a joy. The quality of the wines here speak for themselves.
Langhe Chardonnay 2022, Giulia Negri – Arguably the greatest chardonnay of the Langhe…only 2 barrels most years.
Langhe Pinot Nero 2022, Giulia Negri – Pinot from a Pinot fan, elegance.
Barolo Marassio 2015, Giulia Negri -The beginning of a little Marassio vertical. 2015 is ready now in many ways.
Barolo Marassio 2016, Giulia Negri – A full and rich wine with masculine features.
Barolo Marassio 2021, Giulia Negri – The last Marassio of this run and the first of a trio of 2021s. A glorious vintage of vibrancy and classicism combined
Barolo Tartufaia 2021, Giulia Negri – So hard not to just drink this now…
Barolo Serradenari 2021, Giulia Negri – A wine of great “elan” at the French would say
Sad at leaving Giulia, she had kindly delayed a trip to see us. We drove the 20 minutes or so across from La Morra to Monforte to be greeted by Roberto, Stephanie and team.
Cantina Giacomo Conterno
After a brief tour of the amazing winery it was an incredible treat to taste the 2021s below/above.
Barolo Cerretta 2021, Giacomo Conterno – I am always taken aback by how profoundly different these wines are in fruit. Cerretta showing its clay with a vibrant yet saturated fruit. Great poise and energy.
Barolo Arione 2021, Giacomo Conterno – Arione, continuous with Francia has a more opulent feel but at the same time less saturated, those should be comments you can’t make together. Broad shoulders and great finish.
Barolo Francia 2021, Giacomo Conterno – Francia, the quintessential Barolo for me, deep, serious yet somehow effortlessly classy. The salinity hits after the deep but red fruit leaves the stage. Yearning to drink this again.
Barolo Riserva Monfortino 2019, Giacomo Conterno – The first Monfortino since 2015. This has everything. It is both ready to appreciate and profound infanticide at the same time. I finish that goes on and on. I see no logical reason it will shut down and I fully intend to have this in as many years as possible between now and…
From this spectacular tasting we drove across, back to La Morra to Roberto’s latest “project”. This has been Ristorante Bovio, back in the day but was now Roberto’s.
This was my first visit here and I have to say it was incredible. Showing every bit of Roberto’s, incredible eye for, and obsession with, detail. The window behind us felt like it wasn’t there…
We had persuaded Robert to allow us to repay some of his wonderful generosity with some bottles to start a spectacular lunch.
Krug 1996 – As the shape of the Jefferson bottle the day before hinted at, Krug is a real favourite to Roberto’s. This was exactly as good as it should be. Served in Roberto’s own Symphony glass. real concentration and a sort of dry sweetness.
From there it was a pair of Grand Cru whites.
Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru 2013, PYCM – that trademark reduction gave way to a joyous opulence, it’ll keep but it is go good now. Textbook.
Montrachet Grand Cru 2022, DRC – What better wine could there be for a happy sunny day such as this. Layer upon layer to come, an extrovert that was just about behaving. The empty glass gave more aroma than most wines.
Barbera Francia 2007, Giacomo Conterno – I love how Roberto always likes to show Barbera, unsurprisingly he makes the best, with age. You get a ferrous and salty bloody character, somewhere between the south of Italy and the northern Rhone.
Nebbiolo d’Alba Arione “Charity Edition” 2015, Giacomo Conterno, En Magnum – A very special magnum next and one I had never had. I think it is this sort of wine that really demonstrates how the wines of the region have changed in a way without changing at all. There is insane precision but not at the expense of the varietal and region character. So enjoyable now.
Barolo Vigna Rionda 2015, Massolino – Roberto often shows other producers wines and this was great, good substance and texture.
Barolo Riserva Monfortino 2014, Giacomo Conterno – Thinking that this luncheon was coming to an end it was really exciting to see this wine come our way. Not decanted, just poured. A wine that in many ways typifies what Roberto is about. hardly any other producer made all their wines in 2014 let alone their top wine. Well, Roberto is his own man (yet not a contrarian for the sake of it) and this bottle is a joy. Rich, full, quite saturated but only in a fruited compact way. It does slightly remind me of it’s brother vintage, 2002, when Roberto and his father made a similar “against the grain” decision.
And with that a most memorable lunch was over. Thank you Roberto, a unique time!
Another friend of the trip, awaited us next – Luca Roagna. Now, the last time we saw Luca was in Beaune on an evening after a large lunch. He is an amazing character, he has massive enthusiasm but also a serious and thoughtful nature.
The ridiculous thing is that we tasted an unbelievable 12 wines with Luca and yet I made no notes.
I am going to console myself with the fact that between seeing Guilia, having time with Roberto at a truly extraordinary lunch and now being with Luca, I was in some sort of Vinous nirvana. The cellar set up at Roagna has to be seen to be believed. I am always struck by the difference between the deliberate neglect (rubbish phrase) you “appear” to see in the vineyards and the order and precision of the cellars. From such contradictions Luca fashions some of the best wines of any region.
We tried very hard to get Luca to join us for dinner but, alas, he couldn’t make it.
Dinner – Trattoria Coccinella
This is the sort of restaurant that I hope lasts for ever. I must have been 5-10 times. I always love it. Homely, satisfying with great traditional dishes, brilliant, but more importantly, charming service. A cracking list and just the sort of place that feels like home from home.
Nervi-Conterno Rosato 2021 – were we trying to try all the vintages? No not really but we needed a refresher whilst looking at the menu.
Lacrime del Bricco Derthona, Vigneti Giacomo Boveri – I didn’t catch the vintage, but I wanted to try a Derthona, from the Timorasso grape as it is the coming wine of Italian whites. I like it, more a wine of texture than overt fruit.
We moved the red with a pair of Giacosa white labels. Our first Barbarescos too.
Barbaresco Rabaja 2019, Bruno Giacosa – a great vineyard and a good showing here.
Barbaresco Asili 2019, Bruno Giacosa – one of the greatest of the Barbaresco vineyards and this has that trademarked salty tang, really open.
Barbaresco Rabaja Riserva 1974, Produttori del Barbaresco – there aren’t many regions where 1974 is a star but Piedmont is one. Old bottles from produttori are often top value as well and out and out quality.
Soldera 2016 – It is becoming a must to have a Soldera on the trip and this vintage is always so good. I could have this every day and never get bored. Fat chance of that happening.
Barolo Cerretta 2018, Giacomo Conterno – Cerretta 2018 is a serious wine with proper grip but the clay fruit of Cerretta sits well adding a little plushness.
Bukkuram 2019 Padri della Vigna, Passito di Pantelleria – I’ll be honest, I made no notes here, certainly not a wine I have had before.
Such a great and fun dinner to round off a wonderful day!
Saturday is always a big day on the trip. But before going to lunch we had a visit first to a recommendation from two different people who both know the time of day. The visit was to Burzi in La Morra and the brother and sister team of Alberto & Caterina. We had a great chat on the veranda overlooking the vineyards before heading inside for a tasting.
Barbera d’Alba 2023, Burzi – This is a vigorously fruited Barbera with good fruit and spice.
Langhe Nebbiolo 2023, Burzi – With the pricing and popularity of Barolo the Langhe Nebbiolo (akin to Bourgogne Rouge) category has become important for those wanting to make their name and be in restaurants and have their wine drunk younger. This is pure of fruit and generous.
Barolo 2021, Burzi – Stepping up to the Barolo this is more structured but also very appealing and fruited now.
Barolo La Serra 2020, Burzi – La Serra, along with Brunate, is one of the most famous vineyards of La Morra and Barolo. Possibly akin to Echezeaux etc. There is breadth here and an openness with seriousness behind.
Barolo Capalot VV 2020, Burzi – A the VV would suggest this is from very old vines and Capalot is the top bottling here. A serious wine to be laid down and matured but on this showing not a waste to try now.
Burzi Vino Aromatizzato – This was our first such wine of the trip and something you do not see in many places any more. A little like a Barolo Chinato it is almost a tonic wine or a digestivo. Not to everyone’s taste but I like them.
It had been very kind of Alberto and Catarina to give us time on a Saturday.
And with that we had the short trip to Lunch at Osteria Veglio – another Zucca Sam recommendation.
We took a few bottles but got well stuck into the list. We were brilliantly looked after by the team. this lunch is all about enjoyment and a release.
Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru 2006, Bonneau du Martray, En magnum – Bonneau has often featured on the trip. 2006 was just after the slightly trick decade and this is a generous wine. Mineral with texture and drive.
Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru 2003, Bonneau du Martray – it is always bizarre how well most top white Burgs in 2003 that you come across have faired. This has lawasy beena bit of a gem.
Barolo Annunziata 2016, Lorenzo Accomasso – This and the next were wines from producers I wanted us to try whilst we were here. This bottling was a little muddied if I am honest but weren’t going to let that stop any fun.
Barolo Monvigliero 2016, G.B.Burlotto – Proper and very focused, the high vineyard really shows, translucent fruit and great energy.
Barbaresco 2021, Gaja – this was good, not toasty but quite overt. got better with air as expected.
Barolo Cerretta 2018, Giacomo Conterno – we wanted to have pairs of wines and it was at least 18 hours since we’d had this.
Barolo Francia 2018, Giacomo Conterno – A Francia when no Monfortino was made and as a result a stepchange in structure, this may well fly under the radar, it shouldn’t.
Barolo Riserva Monfortino 2015, Giacomo Conterno, En Magnum – This had been the first bottle ordered so as to give it a few hours air! I’ve not had the 2014 and 2015 side by side but it would be fascinating. There is a real completeness to this wine which makes it all the harder to describe.
Barolo Pie Rupestris, Otin Fiorin 2016, Capellano – One of the established, old skool wines of the region. And one of those that has and effortless power and degraded, almost reticent, fruit.
Barolo 2017, Bartolo Mascarello – the first of a pair, traditional for blending the fruit of different vineyards. Best of the younger wines to try now.
Barolo Tre Tine 2017, G.Rinaldi – for drinking now this clearly makes more sense than the 2016, open knit fruit and a little of the balsamic character, quite decadent.
Sancerre Clos la Neore 2009, E.Vatan – having brought the Vatans back from Bordeaux we took them to Piedmont and poped all the corks. We had a pretty good run rate. I didn’t make notes.
Sancerre Clos la Neore 2011, E.Vatan
Sancerre Clos la Neore 2012, E.Vatan
Sancerre Clos la Neore 2013, E.Vatan
Sancerre Clos la Neore 2014, E.Vatan
Langhe Bianco “Solea” 2022, Roagna – I have always had a soft spot for this wine, and in fact Fiscali and I had the 2016 only a month or so ago. Always has a sunny feel about it. More resin than fruit but at the same time unctuous.
Barolo Francia 2017, Giacomo Conterno – we were almost at a stage where no Conterno could go unordered. 2017 completed a bit of a run and is open now.
When I was planning the itinerary I had, possibly foolishly, booked us in for a dinner, we didn’t make that but instead headed for Drinks @ Saracca as you can imagine I am not entirely sure they were necessary. But hey, its once a year.
Sori Tildin 1997, Gaja – 1997 was a vintage that put Italian wine on the map at the top of the tree. Barbaresco is all but name, opulent, open and degraded.
Barolo Riserva Monfortino 2010, Giacomo Conterno – What a wine, one of the very first that I thought perfect when I first tasted it.
Gattinara Vigna Valferana 2019, Nervi-Conterno – Plush, lush and generous but somehow proper.
Barolo Tre Tine 2012, G.Rinaldi – I love 2012 Barolo for it approachability and yet somehow this was the only one of the trip.
Time for bed!
As one might imagine the trip to the airport the next morning was quiet, as was the flight.
Thank you to all of you who made the tip possible and to all our hosts.
What a place Piedmont is – I wouldn’t be betting against the hat-trick occurring some time soon!
194KPR 