Noize is my favourite restaurant, that’s not news particularly just a fact. There are a lot of things I like but it is meals, just like this, that make this the case. A great room, great location, excellent food with a menu that varies just the right amount for a creature of habit like me. The service is spot on and the wine list is excellent. This was a lunch quartet we hadn’t managed before but will surely do again. We all brought bottles.
Veuve Clicquot “Cave Privee” 1995 – This was my fist experience of this part of the Veuve range. Looking it up it is a blend of 58% PN, 33% C & 9% PM with a dosage of 6g. I enjoyed it, open and neither too rich nor youthful, a little bit of orange rind and a decent length. Good start.
Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Referts 2022, Dugat-Py Vinificateur (This is a working title for Dugat-Py’s new, from 2022, Côte de Beaune white wine négociant project). Sited just downslope from Combettes, arguably, Referts deserves a higher profile. A super example of the rapier-like Puligny style, this has a great balance which makes drinking it so early anything but a waste. With some white flower perfume and pitch-perfect fruit. Only seven barrels were been made. Will look forward to having this again!
Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Pucelles 2010, Drouhin – Having worked with the Domaine Leflaive (see below) wines for so long I, rather ignorantly, view Pucelles as a near-monopole of theirs. This was one of the first non-Leflaive Pucelles I can remember having in ages. It had a fair bit of opulence to it. Not quite the dagger I expected of Pucelles but a superb Burgundy. Drink and enjoy now.
Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Pucelles 2013, Domaine Leflaive – A tricky vintage but very much a wine of focus. We all had (blind) this and the 2010 as being 6 or 7 years apart. This is taut but not too high in acid. More “Pucelles” in character than the Drouhin. I think it will stay as is for quite some time.
Trotanoy 2005 – Decanted on arrival, so it had around 60-90mins before hitting the glasses. This (I am biased) was spot on. Drink from now and over the next two decades. In magnum it probably still needs another 2-5 years. A lovely depth of slightly brooding sweet fruit with suave texture and real balance. I’d be excited to have it again soon.
Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er cru Les Bousselots 2009, Domaine Robert Chevillon – This was an addition from the list and a good one. Nicely 2009 in is degraded structure, lovely aged compote in fruit character. No rush to drink but why wait?
Scharzhofberger Auslese 2012, Egon Muller – Now we took a while to get our bearings here with this being served blind. The reason (excuse!) I would come up with is that Muller manages an insane level of weightless richness. I can imagine having this wine in 30 years. Poise and intensity. Very fine.
Veuve Clicquot “Cave Privee” Rose 1996 – 59% PN, 33% C & 8% PM. We actually had a glass of this after the 1995 Brut at the start but saved the rest for the end. I like a glass of Champagne at the end. A clean way to do things. This was a wine of real texture. Serious rose.
I didn’t take many other pics – just the below. Great lunch!
194KPR 