Over the course of a Thursday and Friday last month I was lucky enough to taste, well drink actually which is much better, the same two line ups of wines, once with customers at No1 Lombard Street and once with press and a couple of retailers at Zucca. Both times it was great to have Lodovico Antinori in attendance to talk through his last great project – Tenuta di Biserno. It is a project I have written about before both here at the launch and also when the team from work made a visit there.
As the line ups were the same I’ll just work the two sets of notes and observations in together as they showed consistently across the two meals. We started with the two vintages – 2007 and 2011 – of Il Pino di Biserno which is the second wine of the estate and as you would expect drinks that little bit earlier.
Il Pino di Biserno 2007 – Really lovely and open, enticing nose with cedar and sweet tobacco and so much dark fruit but not thick rich dark fruit it is medium in weight and just so drinkable. If I had some I’d drink it in the next 2 years or so, it’ll age well but I can’t see what more you would want.
Il Pino di Biserno 2011 – More brooding, more serious and more dense. Succulent black fruits with a dash of lifting saline. The tannins are good and not over the top, there is more weight than the 2007 and I think it’ll will be bigger than the 2007 even with age. Good, best in 2-3yrs and well beyond.
Then we were onto the estates main wine – Biserno, they never actually reveal the precise blend but it is a Cabernet Franc heavy one.
Biserno 2011 – Great nose, quite serious, then behind that an almost red fruited freshness, good lift and acidity, I love the fact that this is so true to Cabernet Franc but also manages to have that classically acidity based profile that is all Italy.
And then to Lodovico, the wine that is made from 94% Cabernet Franc and 6% Petit Verdot that is from one specific site and released in only suitable vintages. There was no 2009 or 2010.
Lodovico 2011 – Rich and full fruited this is excellently extravagant as well as showing superb depth. It some how manages to be very dense but not heavy, tight on the palate and clearly one to be patient with.