Well, I must start with an apology, actually two.
Firstly, to any regular reader who may have missed me posting, well, I can’t really blame anyone, its been a busy time. Anyhow, I am looking to do a few more and have a series of drafts saved and “in work”
Secondly, to the wonderful team of friends that is the wine trip. This post is 23 months after out last trip to Burgundy in 2023. We head off to Piedmont in under a month for the ninth trip we have done. Only the covid years and 2024 managed to de-rail us!
Below are the previous trips.
We were keen to start at a pace and managed an almost full complement at a Cotswolds dinner the night before we left…(well, the Dr was meeting us the following morning).
The full team was: Fiscali, Magnum, Leechy, Raw, Wardy, The Dr & Myself…
Chequers near Chipping Norton was the venue…
There had been discussion of a theme but with excitement levels high it just seemed to be a Magnum party!
Forster Pechstein Riesling 2013, Von Buhl (mag) – Was a great start, nearly a decade to have mellowed but still citrus fresh.
Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru La Romanée 2014, Vincent Dancer (mag) – Was very proper, a shade of reduction which led, with air, to lightly buttered popcorn and ripe deliciousness while retaining its Burgundian soul, yum!
Chablis Grand Cru Les Preuses 2017, Samuel Billaud – After 2014, 2017 is the next best vintage for Burgundian Chardonnay and this showed it. Zesty, cool fruit, lime and drive.
Bien Nacido Vineyard Pinot Noir 2012, Chanin (2bts) – Much more out of my comfort zone. Ripe, medium bodied warm Pinot fruit, a shade of orange rind. Lovely drinking soft and open.
Chateaunneuf-du-Pape Cuvee Celestins 2010, H.Bonneau (mag) – My note is short here with one main observation “DIVINE”. I’d put Bonneau with Grenache up there with Rayas and Grenache or Soldera and Sangiovese as a pure standout producer. Long, rish, spiced but effortlessly balanced.
Trotanoy 2009 (mag) – The 2010 vs 2009 debate will rage for years but the 2009s are a joy already. This had that classical Trotanoy depth and savoury power. This is a Trot that has undone his (Trot is surely a “he”) top button.
Cheval des Andes 2015 – Given the competition this did well. Dark fruit but not OTT, South America done well. (The Cheval Blanc team take this property seriously).
Ormes de Pez 2000 – Still together, the Lynch-Bages team’s St.Estephe is almost always a source of value. Dark fruit and a mellowing structure working well here.
Valbuena 2015, Vega-Sicilia – Mid weight, ferrous and doing what it does, much enjoyed.
A tremendous dinner, no idea what we ate but it was good and we were well looked after.
We rose the following morning just about in time and made it to the local strip.
In the air – something of a tradition to have some fizz in the air. It wasn’t a prodigious amount on account of the short flight and slight cobwebs.
Krug Grand Cuvee No164 (2bts) – doing exactly what it does, to use the official blurb it is – “Composed around the harvest of 2008, Krug Grande Cuvée 164ème Édition is a blend of 127 wines from 11 different years. The youngest is from the year 2008 and the oldest dates back to 1990.”
Nyetimber “1086” 2010 – The Nyetimber with its fancy silver label struggled to keep up and certainly met with disapproval from Mr Magnum…Not the fairest time to judge it!
We landed, got through “customs” and headed to Sufflot. We were now, and for four days, in the safe hands of Momo. Anyone looking for characterful and total informed transport in Burgundy need look no further. There was the slightly weird logistic of trying to order food whilst en route but in the end all was good.
With quite a few meals ahead of us we decided to do something we last did in Tuscany, and have a “white wine only” luncheon. Mr Magnum seized the list and we were off. Ticking off producers like a frenzied game of Burgundy Bingo…
Chablis 1er Cru Vaillons 2014, F.Raveneau – A joy, taught and textured.
Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Macherelles 2018, H.Lamy – Lean and classy, delicious, even in this warm vintage it needs time plus! (Lamy always does)
Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru En Cailleret 2018, Morey-Coffinet – Richer, more honeyed, overt and almost decadent. A good type of vulgarity.
Savigny-les-Beaune 1er Cru Les Vergelesses 2018, Esprit Leflaive – I am biased but these Esprits, in the hands of a man we would meet the next day, are a triumph!
Santenay 1er Cru Les Gravières 2019, Jean-Marc Vincent – A young producer on a steep upward curve. Texturely superb.
Meursault “Les Grands Charrons” 2016, Bernard Boisson-Vadot – B-V was very in vogue 8-10 years ago for a Coche-u-like style. This was a step on from the other wines in maturity and worked well.
Meursault 1er Cru Poruzots 2020, François Mikulski – Almost impossible to miss these bottles across a restaurant. I hadn’t had one in years. Youthful but good and more to come.
We were now back on track timewise and headed the very short distance to our first tasting at:
Edouard Labruyère was sadly away in the US but we were brilliantly looked after through a tour of the new winery and a tasting of Domaine Labruyère and Domaine Jacques Prieur (the later having one of the best ranges of Terroirs in all Burgundy).
Moulin-a-Vent Coeur de Terroir 2020, Domaine Labruyère – Dark fruit, mid-weigh and grip, delicious, good personality…
Moulin-a-Vent Le Carquelin 2020, Domaine Labruyère – Higher palate, more fruit, more depth, this is a cracking site.
Beaune 1er Cru Champs-Pimont 2020 (rge), Domaine Jacques Prieur – Vibrant, rich and full, cherry fruit, hedonistic.
Corton-Bressandes Grand Cru 2020, Domaine Jacques Prieur – Bold and full, richly structured but with more precision than I often associate with Corton. Keeper.
Clos Vougeot Grand Cru 2020, Domaine Jacques Prieur – So classy, Clos Vougeot, via its vastness gets a rough press, good examples are splendid and this, given 5-10years is quite something.
On to the whites:
Beaune 1er Cru Champs-Pimont 2020 (blc), Domaine Jacques Prieur – Toasty and richly fruited with lots of exuberance, ready to go.
Meursault “Clos de Mazeray” 2020, Domaine Jacques Prieur – Resolved and lush yet proper, vanilla and a dash of ginger. Often a “go to” fro me…
Meursault-Santenots 1er Cru 2020, Domaine Jacques Prieur – Rich with a dash of dry honey, quite compressed with lots to come, serious.
Having had one meal and one visit we were now in the mode! We made it to our lodgings – Hotel de la Cloche – which as its website says has the “Charm of an old coaching in”. I leave it there…as organiser, questions were asked.
We gathered in the Garden (aka car park) for Champagne ahead of dinner.
Delamotte Blanc des Blancs 2008 – This has consistently been delicious and remains as such, a bit of light toastiness and lovely hazelnut edge.
Pol Roger 2013 – I am always happy to see a bottle Pol and this was a nice foil to the Delamotte.
And off, on foot for supper.
Maison du Colombier – a institution in Beaune these days.
St.Aubin 1er Cru Les Champlots 2015, Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey – Starting with, friend of the Trip, PYCM, just delicious. I can remeber when St.Aubin was almost unknown…alas no more.
Morey-Saint-Denis “En La Rue de Vergey” 2015 (blc), Bruno Clair – Now there aren’t many whites in MSD, went down well.
Meursault “Limozin” 2018, Henri Germain – An “old school” producer, a fav of my good friend Matthieu at Noize. Proper.
Macon-Pierreclos 1er Jus de Chavigne 2015, Domaine Guffens-Heynen – I was delighted to see this on the list. What a man. Unique. Great energy and (positively) degrading fruit.
Savigny-les-Beaune 1er Cru La Dominode 2014, Bruno Clair – A tricky vintage on occasion for the reds but this showed well.
Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er Cru Clos de Porets St.Georges 2014, H.Gouges – The name in Nuits-St-Georges. Good site and nice fruit to harmonise the evident structure.
Gevrey-Chambertin 2012, Taupenot-Merme – Tiny but good vintage, this had oodles of character and a was in the second phase. Nice.
Volnay 1er Cru Champans 2013, Marquis d’Angerville – In preparation for the next morning. A much misunderstood vintage in red. I adore Champans and this was a good example.
Santenay Rouge “Gravité” 2015, Jean-Marc Vincent – Ripe, serious vintage to pair with the producers white from lunch time. Tender with succulence.
Volnay 1er Cru Chevret 2012, Nicolas Rossignol – Not a producer I know well, there are Lots of Rossignols around Volnay (Like Conternos in Piedmont and Tissots in Jura). As above a good if tiny vintage.
Vougeot Clos du Village 2012, Benjamin Leroux – Not a wine I’d had but a good surprise. Quite plush.
Savigny-les-Beaune 1er Cru La Dominode 2012, Bruno Clair – Following the 2014 above with an ungraded vintage! (not pictured!)
Blagny 1er Cru La Pièce Sous Le Bois 2015, Matrot (mag) – A wine I know well and as the story goes the reason Anne-Claude Leflaive stopped making red wines at Domaine Leflaive. Always a joy!
Time for some ZZZZ’s
Up with the lark and off to see François Duvivier at D’Angerville in Volnay. One of the joys of basing ourselves in Beaune (as most people do) is not only that it is a great place to be but also that no journey is too far…
“It belongs to the group of very, very good vintages” Guillaume D’Angerville on the 2022s.
Volnay 2022, Marquis d’Angerville – from two plots Les Grands Champs (below Mitans) and Pluchots. Always outclasses its “classification”.
Volnay 1er Cru 2022, Marquis d’Angerville – This is a blend of two premier cru parcels, the powerful
Mitans (0.65ha, of which 0.32ha are being replanted) and the sloping, free-draining Pitures. Mitans is some peoples top wine! This was a real star in 2022.
Volnay 1er Cru Clos des Angles, Marquis d’Angerville – Produced since 2008 when Guillaume managed to get some more landed here. Always accessible and open.
Volnay 1er Cru Fremiet 2022, Marquis d’Angerville – Boarders Pommard and has a bit more of that villages muscular nature. A keeper.
Volnay 1er Cru Caillerets 2022, Marquis d’Angerville – “Caillerets is as ethereal as it’s ever been.” the words of Guillaume and hard to disagree.
Volnay 1er Cru Taillepieds 2022, Marquis d’Angerville – In this line up on this day this was tighter, its all there though!
Volnay 1er Cru Champans 1er Cru 2022, Marquis d’Angerville – Marquis d’Angerville is the principal owner of Champans, with four hectares in two plots. The next wine is most synonymous with the estate but this is close behind.
Volnay 1er Cru Clos des Ducs 2022, Marquis d’Angerville – The 2.15 hectare monopole Clos des Ducs stretches away from the domaine buildings on a steep south-to southeast-facing slope. Tasted well, will be interesting to see if it closes up for a bit? It can age so well as this tasting showed.
After this masterclass of Volnay, merci François, we had time for a quick coffee stop in Puligny. Before we were on to taste with Pierre Vincent at the mighty…
To get to taste here is quite something, to get to taste a vintage like 2021…WOW…to quote him from a while back.
“I have worked in wine for 20 years and this vintage was the hardest. However, the results are surprising. 2021 was a vintage of winemakers and vignerons: we had to work very, very hard in the vines.”
Pierre Vincent, November 2022
So, to the tasting in the “newish” cuverie (opened in 2022).
Macon Verze Le Monte 2021, Domaines Leflaive – These top single plot Verze’s have been so much fun, so classy.
Pouilly-Fuisse 2021, Domaines Leflaive – A small 3Ha site. A commune that doesn’t get the plaudits it warrants, this is a little toasty and extravagant.
Puligny-Montrachet 2021, Domaine Leflaive – A wine that has caused me more blind tasting angst over the years than almost – it is from seven plots (Les Tremblots, Les Brelances, Les Nosroyes, La Rue aux Vaches, Les Grands Champs, Les Reuchaux and Les Houlières), the oldest vines go back to 1955.
Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Clavoillon 2021, Domaine Leflaive – Not far from a Monopole, the Domaine own 85%, its been the rising star for some time now, drank (sorry “tasted”) very well indeed.
Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Folatieres 2021, Domaine Leflaive – I almost always find this one of the most alluring and open of the range. and so it was here, it trends the line between class and over exuberance very well.
Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Pucelles 2021, Domaine Leflaive – Along with Chevalier this is quite possibly the standard-bearer for the estate. Helpfully my note book just says “stunning, so good”. It manages to be lazer-like without being mean or lean. One for the cellar.
Batard-Montrachet Grand Cru 2021, Domaine Leflaive – If these wines were rugby players then Batard might be the only forward. There is always a little more power and presence about the Batard. This characteristic alongside a cooler vintage actually works very well.
Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru 2021, Domaine Leflaive – So to the top of the mountain. The Chevalier some how manages to combine so many of the best traits of the other wines into one. Rapier clean and clear but with texture and latent power. A joy to taste now but even better to look forward to.
Beaune 1er Cru Les Epenottes 2020, Esprit Leflaive – The first of three red Esprit wines. Seeing the Leflaive label on a red always makes me do a double take. This Beaune 1er was juicy ands generously precise.
Savigny-les-Beaune 1er Cru Les Jarrons 2020, Esprit Leflaive – Certainly not the first Savigny of the trip, there’s good things happening.
Gevrey-Chambertin 2020, Esprit Leflaive – This is a bit of a gem, it has the subdued early power you want from Gevrey but also a flirtatious side.
We could have stayed and chatted all day. It had been a seriously good tasting, very well and amusingly hosted by Pierre – thank you.
With our next visit in Morey we headed north to a restaurant in Chambolle that I had been to before – Le Millesime. It is ultra modern (for Burgundy) and the list is good. The food was precise it was just a tricky service day so it was a little slow. Not helped by a near-farcical episode of trying to pay that required walking a fair way down the road to get a signal! Anyway on with it…
Chablis 1er Cru Les Forest 2016, V.Dauvissat – Having had some Raveneau it seemed only fair to give Dauvissat a go…this was good, slightly yoghurty texture.
“Buisson-Renard” Blanc Fume de Pouilly 2014, Didier Dagueneau – This was fascinating, Sauvignons that don’t taste green are becoming a real love for me.
Condrieu Les Terrasses de L’empire 2019, Georges Verney – Verney is one ot the very top Condrieu producers and it showed here, good with the food.
As we were in the Cote-de-Nuits, and Chambolle in particular, it seemed right to move our drinking there:
Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Les Cru les Véroilles 2013, Ghislaine Barthod -Really delicious, succulent but with drive and verve, really lovely elegance.
Morey-Saint-Denis 1er Cru Clos de la Bussière 2015, Roumier – Real depth there, serious wine, may be on to keep but appreciably good.
Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru 2012, de Vogue – All from Grand Cru fruit, as ever, tightly wound but responded so well to air. Opening up and strutting!
We were now a little behind time…getting to Christophe Perrot-Minot in Morey.
On arrival Christophe guessed where we had been by our lateness. We went down into the newly renovated cellar/tasting room. This really is a collection of tiny holdings – hence why I have put bottle numbers below after each wine.
Again we were on the 2021 vintage:
The volumes here have been shrinking over recent years. Production was truly tiny in 2021 – just 49 barrels were made at the domaine, versus 90 in 2020, 125 in 2019 and 150 in 2018. 150 barrels is what Christophe Perrot-Minot considers to be ‘normal’.
Morey-Saint-Denis “En La Rue de Vergey” 2021, Perrot-Minot (1496 bts made) – This is a 1.4 hectare holding, a long thin strip of 40 year old vines located just above Clos de Tart. Lovely fine red fruits, a great start.
Chambolle-Musigny Orveux des Bussières 2021, Perrot-Minot (1496 bts made) – This, the domaine’s Chambolle village, has the cuvée name Orveaux des Bussières, reflecting that 40% of it is from Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru La Combe d’Orveau and 60% is from old vines (100 years old) in Les Bussières. The total area is just 0.85 hectares. This was succulent and so drinkable now, masses to come.
Gevrey-Chambertin “Justice des Seuvrées” 2021, Perrot-Minot (1497 bts made) – The domaine’s Gevrey-Chambertin Villages is made from 1.51 hectares of vines. Half of this comes from Les Justices (north) and the other half from Les Seuvrées (extreme south – the last parcel in Gevrey). My notes seem to only say “So refined!!!”
Morey-Saint-Denis 1er Cru La Riotte 2021, Perrot-Minot (1025 bts made) – La Riotte, a premier cru made by just two others, lies on the opposite side of the village from La Rue de Vergy, beside a small street leading down to the main road. Indeed, the name may be derived from Ruotte, a little road. This is a half-hectare holding of 55 year old vines. Nervous energy and masses of complexity here. Very fine.
Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru 2021, Perrot-Minot (1071 bts made) – This 0.91 hectare domaine-owned parcel is the highest plot in the village, located directly opposite the holding of Armand Rousseau. Stellar, long darker and with great depth.
Mazoyères-Chambertin Grand Cru 2021, Perrot-Minot (1073 bts made) – This 0.74 hectare holding is owned by the domaine and is located on the high part of the slope. Christophe would be entitled to vinify this together with Charmes-Chambertin but quite rightly says that this would be a “heresy”! Ripe, rich and full but with a generosity of elegance.
What a tasting! Merci Christophe.
So, back to the hotel for a freshen up and then back to the garden for Dom Perignon 2002 from magnum which was so good and just the palate enlivener before we headed for dinner at:
Bistrot du Bord de L’eau @ Levernois
Here we went a little off piste, albeit staying resolutely French. We started the wines with a pair of Chablis, but not just any, a pair of Grand Crus.
Chablis Grand Cru Bougros 2015, Billaud Simon – More rounded than it’s “sibling” below. ready to go although no rush.
Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos 2015, Billaud Simon – The most famous of the Grand Crus, more poise and salinity, a shade finer as you might expect.
Puligny-Montrachet 2018, Domaine Louis Carillon – Brother of Francois, a focussed style in a warm year worked well. Good Puligny verve.
Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er Cru Les Roncières 2012, Domaine Robert Chevillon – Our only red burg of the night, the list being “fully exposed” on that front. This drank well. 2012 showing its class again.
Puligny-Montrachet 2018, Domaine Etienne Sauzet – A little more Gourmand than the Carillon but delicious.
Then onto a pair from a producer I always look out for in French wine lists – Jamet. The Cotes du Rhone is a gem, the Côte Rôtie a step up.
Côte Rôtie 2017, Domaine Jamet – The more flamboyant of the two on this showing but so fruited so poised and with that trademark dense silk texture.
Côte Rôtie 2015, Domaine Jamet – A dash shy on the nose but it more than made up for it on the palate. Super.
Léoville Poyferre 2005, St.Julien – Some bit of juicy St.Julien to finish, just starting to really strut about!
It was decided, rightly, that we now needed a Winebar, now my notes let me down and this was not on the itinerary but a bit of deduction from photos and the internet followed. I am 95% sure we went to Le Bout du Monde back in Beaune – a good list and fun vibe…
Volnay 1er Cru Clos de Chenes 2014, Xavier Monnot – To carry on our Volnay day!
Auxey-Duresses 2014 (rge), Coche-Dury – Because we hadn’t had Coche yet. A wine where colour tells you nothing, light of colour but bringht and expansive of red fruit on the nose.
Volnay 1er Cru Fremiet 2010, Marquis d’Angerville – Back to where we started the day. a structured vintage and (see above) richer site, this was a star.
The we headed, emotionally, back to our Rhone trip:
Bandol La Toutine 2009, Domaine Tempier – I’ve rarely had these with some age but they are so worth it! I would love to visit one day.
Chateaunneuf-du-Pape 2000, Clos des Papes – The comment on the Tempier could apply here. Red fruits, wild strawberry and then some grey pepper.
We also bumped into Sarah Glantenay who we would be seeing the next morning!
The Dr left the trip, distraught not to get another night at the Hotel. Some tired palates and weary souls but there was no time to wallow. The wine trip Saturdays don’t happen by themselves.
Based in Volnay Domaine Geroges Glantenay is run by Sister and brother team – Sarah and Guillaume. They took over from their father, Pierre, in the 2013 vintage. Guillaume makes the wines, whilst Sarah runs all other aspects of the domaine. Sat in the village of Volnay, the domaine has approaching ten hectares spread over Volnay, Pommard, Chambolle-Musigny, Monthélie and Meursault.
This was a full and expansive tasting of reds that went down very well. I am a drinker of these at home regularly. 2021 was the vintage as you can see.
Bourgogne Pinot Noir “Maison Dieu” 2021, Domaine Glantenay – From 8 sites roughly split 70% village of Volnay and 30% village of Pommard. approachable and with great Pinto Noir character.
Volnay 2021, Domaine Glantenay – From 11 different sites, refined nose, elegant red fruit.
Volnay 1er Cru Le Ronceret 2021, Domaine Glantenay – Often a favourite of mine here, red fruit, raspberry and a lovely edge of salinity.
Volnay 1er Cru La Robardelle 2021, Domaine Glantenay – Especially long finish here.
Volnay 1er Cru Les Brouillards 2021, Domaine Glantenay – A cirus note, lovely clean fruit, focused and precise.
Volnay 1er Cru Les Santenots 2021, Domaine Glantenay – More richness and a little more structure, my note says “suave”.
Pommard 1er Cru Les Combes Dessus 2021, Domaine Glantenay – Pommard quite often seems to struggle for a definitive personality, to that end I see it a little like Nuit-St-Georges. There are “traditional” portrayals with richness and structure but also wine of more modern finesse. We are in the later camp here.
Pommard 1er Cru Les Rugiens-Haut 2021, Domaine Glantenay – Serious site, seriously good wine!
Chambolle-Musigny 2021, Domaine Glantenay – For a Volnay domaine to have holdings in the Cote-de-Nuits is rare. but if you were to liken any village of the north with Volnay I believe it would be Chambolle, finessed and elegant.
Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Les Feusselottes 2021, Domaine Glantenay – Quite something here, lots on show with layers to come.
It had been a super tasting and very kind of Sarah on a Saturday. We left smiling and with a task at hand – the Saturday Lunch…
We found Le Montrachet in Puligny-Montrachet to be in fine fettle post a refurb. Whether they knew what we had in store is debatable. (This also happens to be the first place we have re-been on the trip).
“Two by two” was the way we started post a rather gorgeous bottle of Krug 2004, it was in a good place, a tiny bit mellowed. Champagne 2004s seem to have a place on the trip Saturday as we had DP 2004 and Salon 2004 pre-lunch in San Sebastian, well Getaria to be precise.
Looking back at this now and trying to decipher my notes (which stop about have way through) I can only assume Mr Magnum was in charge for the whites.
Puligny-Montrachet 1erCru Les Combettes 2014, Domaine Jacques-Prieur – This first pair could easily have been named “great vintage, great site”. 2014 is exactly that and Combettes is probably the next cab off the rank were there ever to be an upgrade to grand cru. DJP is a rich rendition with lots of matter, good acidity but a generosity.
Puligny-Montrachet 1erCru Les Combettes 2014, Domaine Etienne Sauzet – The Sauzet was classy, a little less rich than DJP bit in lovely proportions. I couldn’t really split them.
Meursault 1er Cru Goutte d’Or 2017, Domaine Mikulski – This Meursault pair was fun, both generous, this 2017 had a bit more poise, more to come.
Meursault “Clos de Mazeray” 2018, Domaine Jacques-Prieur – This is a wine you don’t have to wait for (but you can as a 2003 showed 5 years ago) and in a vintage like 2018 why would you. Opulent yet proper.
Chablis 1er Cru Montee de Tonnere 2018, F.Raveneau – Double Raveneau, others are good but this really is the king of Chablis. 2018 wasn’t straightforward but the class wines out (almost) always with great producers. Open for business.
Chablis Grand Cru Valmur 2018, F.Raveneau – May be we should have made it a “task” to get through all the Chablis Grand Crus…This could easily have been the main stay of a lunch or dinner.
Gevrey-Chambertin 2018, Domaine Rousseau – It would be utterly remiss to come to Burgundy and not have a bottle from one of the truly legendary estates. You can really judge as estate from whet they do with a “relatively” humble level in an atypical vintage. This was class, open, rich but so balanced.
Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er Cru Les Pruliers 2005, H.Gouges – Some class on show here, though still a shade hesitant.
Monthelie 2016, Domaine Coche-Dury – Our second Coche and our second red Coche. Finesse and elegant persistence.
Bonnes Mares Grand Cru 2008, Domaine G.Roumier – Now this is a top wine. Of all the vintages from the last two decades which are more open and which I would choose to drink now 2007 & 2008 are up there. Bonnes Mares is such a lovely site too. This was in a lovely third gear…good wine (obvs!)
Échézeaux Grand Cru 2009, Domaine de la Romanée-Conti – From here things got rather hedonistic. Le Montrachet’s list and prices make it too tempting. Échézeaux 2009, is super, rising above its natural flamboyance and energy into something effortless. The nose is beautiful with a perfume of sweet slightly degrading plums and red/black fruits. The palate is generous for sure, seductive and rich but there is an intensity and concentration.
Romanee-Saint-Vivant Grand Cru 2006, Domaine de la Romanée-Conti – RSV is a Cru I adore. it has a certain completeness about it. Confident but never showy, comfortable in its own skin. 2006 is just starting to open out. This had midweight and a great elegant depth. Stunning.
Échézeaux Grand Cru 2005, Domaine de la Romanée-Conti – 2005 – Whether Bordeaux of Burgundy has a reputation for uncompromising classicism. A vintage from another era might be a way to put it. This needed more air than the previous two but with that the class showed.
Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Les Petits-Monts 2018, Domaine de la Romanée-Conti – Only available in French on-trade this was an itch that had to be scratched. It was vibrant and pure, oodles of red fruits with a little spice. Would love to have this again.
Échézeaux Grand Cru 2003, Domaine de la Romanée-Conti – A trio of Échézeaux? Well why not. A freak of a vintage at the time but the terroir wins through in the end if there was a light hand and balance to start with. Fascinating.
Montrachet Grand Cru 2009 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti – Cheese calls for white and could there be a better which than The Domaine’s Montrachet. I looked back to the note from when it was released in 2012 (below). It was joy. A perfect correctness to go with hedonistic verve.
“Interestingly, Le Montrachet was harvested on September 15th before completion of the reds and perhaps this accounts for the zesty, fresh, pure perfume alongside the more usual silkily ripe, buttery nose for which this extraordinary wine is noted. This is a very refined clean wine, linear and taut on which is draped the rich, creamy old vine fruits”
Rayne Vigneau 1998 – Where to go for a sweet after such decadence well here. Rich and full with that Crème brûlée note.
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Chassagne-Montrachet Rge 2018 M.MOREY (hlv) – This was Wardy’s accompaniment through the white stages of the meal.
We were exceptionally well looked after here. The food (pics below) was exceptional. What an afternoon. Seamless.
People retired to their rooms after Momo had deposited us back at the hotel. Dinner was booked but would we make it. We decided to walk, we needed to. We rounded a corner to walk straight into Luca Roagna and his friend Giampiero Cordero. They joined for dinner at Le Table du Square. Fortunately, they too had enjoyed lunch so it was a lovely chance to catch up rather than anything too over the top, just another 5 wines.
Rully Chene 2020, Domaine Dureuil-Janthial – Yet another producer I look out for on lists in wine-savvy French restaurants. Just cracking value and really properly made.
Rully 1er Cru Le Meix Cadot 2020, Domaine Dureuil-Janthial – As the 1er Cru label would suggest this is a step up on the Chene. an extra layer of depth and length.
Morey-Saint-Denis 1er Cru Clos de la Bussière 2019, Roumier – Possibly the Roumier wine I come across the most, succulent but with an definitive structure, probably deserves more time in glass than we managed.
Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Les Sentiers 2017, François Feuillet – A totally new producer to me. It was odd that we hadn’t had more 2017 reds – they are so good early and that’s not damning withfeint praise.
Chateau de Fonsalette 2012 – And to round things off what could be better than a cracking bottle from the wizard that is Emmanuel Reynaud, a delight.
And with that the evening was over. It was terrific to have seen Luca and to meet Giampiero. Little did Luca know at the time that the 2025 trip is to Piedmont.
Gentlemen, you know who you are, THANK YOU!
Nebbiolo here we come…
194KPR 